Land of Milk and... Goats

August 8th, 2008
About the eclipse... it's a long story. We saw it. It was a memorable experience - just not quite like we had expected or planned. Experiencing a total eclipse for the second time was different as we already knew what to expect & could anticipate the eerie light for the minutes surrounding totality. The memories from the last event in Hungary in 1999 became quite clear for those moments. Still - it's an experience so unique, a quality of light so bizarre - quite difficult to adequately explain in words. We made a lot of new friends on the long way from St. Petersburg & met up with many of them again while in Novosibirsk. Stuck around the area for a few days after the eclipse, then continued on to Krasnoyarsk. There we found something much closer to the Russia I remember from a decade ago. People were plenty friendly and the city itself had a much less Western influence in terms of businesses and atmosphere. We spent a day clambering among the giant granite pillars of "Stolbi National Park." Visited various other sites in the area and spent a relaxing evening at a friend's "dacha" in the country. I want to build my own dacha - perhaps a Russian banya as well! Tonight we're heading further West via train - toward Lake Baikal. Trains seem to be fully booked - but we'll figure something out I'm sure.

August 13th, 2008
Spent a few days relaxing on Olkhon Island in the middle of Western Lake Baikal. The weather was less than warm - swimming was forced. Most memorable experience was the banya/Russian bath with some friends one evening. I don't think I've ever been subjected to such extreme heat and humidity. We planned various methods for circumnavigating the lake via train, hoping to snap some decent fotki - but no options panned out. So - something for next time. Baikal was great - I'd like to see more of it via motorbike I think. Next to Ulan Ude for a quick look - then hopefully get out of Russia before Dustin's visa expires.

August 15th, 2008
Mongolia. For the last few days we've been eating foods in Eastern Russia quite similar to those found here in Central Asia, but crossing the border into Mongolia we have experienced a drastic change in the language, culture and countryside around us. Folks are living in tents/gers/yurts - sparsely spread throughout vast valleys. I think I just saw one with a satellite dish....

August 18th, 2008
Returned from a great excursion into the Mongolian steppe - vast plains and rolling hills without trees. Dus and I spent a night with a local nomadic family and attempted to help with the chores - fetching water from a well, milking cows, etc... I've never eaten this much goat. Plenty of dairy products.